HOW TO CHOOSE YOUR SAFETY RAZOR
There are several kinds of safety razors in the market to choose from, so deciding which one to get can quickly become a very discouraging task. But the process does not really need to be complicated. Here are the basics to keep in mind when choosing your first safety razor:
Aggressiveness | For a beginner, the most important consideration is to choose a mild, non-aggressive razor. The aggressiveness of a razor is defined by the gap between the comb (bottom part of the razor head) and the head (top part), which in turns determines how much of blade is visible. The wider the gap, the more exposed the blade, the sharper, more aggressive it becomes. With an aggressive razor, you need to be very careful.
Weight | How heavy your razor is an important attribute when choosing a razor. A heavier razor gives you a steadier hand when using it and you will feel safer, especially if you are a beginner. The weight will also put the razor to work instead of applying pressure.
Handle length | Razors come in two main lengths 80mm and 100mm. The Lenght will not make a difference in the quality of the shave. It is more a matter of comfort. Which one you pick depends on your personal preference of how a razor feels in your hand.
Handle Texture | Favor razors with a textured handle that give you a good grip in all situations, even when using a shaving oil.
Cap Shape | Choose a razor with a slim head that allows you to reach difficult spots, for example, the angle under your nose. The curve of the cap can also determine aggressiveness. A larger curve keeps the blade turned at an angle giving you a milder shave.
Head Type | There are 6 different types of heads, determined by the shape of the safety bar, which is the piece under the blade that protects the skin against the blade. Here are the different types from the mildest to the most aggressive: Straight Bar: these heads have a completely flat and straight safety bar, these are the mildest as they leave the least of blade exposed. They also tend to catch less of the hair so you will need more passes. Scalloped: the safety bars of these heads have a beveled bar surface, they are the most common type and are ideal for very sensitive skin because while still leaving little blade exposed, the beveled surface lets more hair in and you need fewer passes. Closed Comb: these heads still have a safety bar that guards the blade but as its name says, they have a comb to direct the hair into the razor, they are ideal for men with relatively coarse hair. Open Comb: these heads do not have a safety bar so the blade is completely exposed, the comb teeth are there only to guide the hair into the blade. These heads are very aggressive so they have to be used with care. They are perfect if you have an abundant thick beard, or if you shave so seldom that your beard is really abundant when you shave, but you must be experienced. Slant Head: these are very rare heads with a straight safety bar that is slanted. The theory behind them is that the cut will be more efficient when the blade slices at a shearing angle.
Razor Type | Safety razors are commonly available with a standard straight comb bar and a fixed blade exposure gap. But you can also find adjustable razors that allow you to control the amount of exposed blade yourself. These razors are a clever choice if you shave different areas of your body with different hair thickness, if you want to use a different exposure on your first and second passes, or if you want to progress from a mild razor to a more aggressive razor without having to buy two different razors.
The performance of your razor also depends on the type of blade you use. It’s very logical: A mild safety razor used with a mild blade will be extremely easy to use; a mild safety razor combined with a sharp blade will be safe and efficient. In the same way, an aggressive razor used with a mild blade will be perfect if you know your hair is thick and will need to use a razor with a wide gap between the top and the bottom parts of the head, but you are just a beginner or have a non-steady pulse; an aggressive razor with a sharp blade, well… use it if you are an absolute expert or a total maniac.
The Easy Guide to Choosing
Beginner? Choose a mild razor with a scalloped safety bar. These are very simple to use and will give you a good experience. We favor the scalloped type of safety bar rather than the straight safety bar, as it lets more hair into the blade, so this is the type that we will most often recommend. They are the standard for a reason.
Sensitive skin? Choose a mild razor with a scalloped bar.
Thin hair? A mild razor with a scalloped bar will do a perfect job.
Thick, coarse hair? Choose a razor with a wider gap between the head and the bottom of the blade or an adjustable razor that lets you adjust according to your needs. If you think your beard needs to be guided into the blade you may choose a closed comb instead of a scalloped safety bar.
Heavy-handed or shaky hands? A mild safety razor with a scalloped safety bar, one with less of an exposed blade, is more forgiving and can allow for a little more speed or heavy-handedness.